Where I eat in Krakow: chef Marcin Filipkiewicz
Longing for good Polish cuisine, he presents the well-known Polish dishes in a different light. Chef of the Copernicus hotel, Marcin Filipkiewicz, talks about Krakow's food scene.
Breakfast: at home
I usually eat breakfast at home. Working late does not go well with lazy mornings in cafes. But when I have a day off, I am happy to go out, try new things and look for inspiration. It can be found in various places - small, inconspicous bistros or friends' kitchens. Recently, I was surprised by trout tartare with raisins and ginger granita, which I tried in Florence. At first glance it was an insane combination. But it worked great and I use this recipe in Copernicus.
I like this place because of its atmosphere. I found it by coincidence, as I am not a coffee-lover. What I like the most is a good espresso, and coffee makes me think of a moment of rest, going to the hotel bar and getting five minutes of peace from the craze of the kitchen.
Sunday lunch: Gospoda na Woli
It serves traditional Polish food - something that I feel like on a day off. I am glad that these new Warsaw restaurants, such as the one in the Raffles Hotel, are becoming talk of the town, precisely because they bring back traditional cuisine, but at a higher level. It's not because of liquid nitrogen, foam or other sparks flying but because they use excellent quality products with a new approach. Fashion does come back not only in the clothing industry, but also in the culinary arts. I myself try to show that, for example, łazanki noodles do not need to be pulpy but may be served as pieces of pasta with crayfish necks and Brussels sprouts.
Quick snack and evening getaway: Multi Qlti and Plac Nowy 1
I opt for Plac Nowy 1 because I know the chef. He took part in my course, and it turned out that we have a lot in common. I grew to like this place because of its easy-going feel – you can just have an appetizer and drink a beer or stay for dinner. In Multi Qulti I often try interesting beers with unusual flavours.
Date: Bottiglieria 1881
I don't date, but when I think of a date, I think of good wine. Bottiglieria made a great impression on me with its fantastic food and a great selection of wines.
Cake: La baguette
I definitely have a sweet tooth. I find it difficult to choose one cake or one cake shop. I like La baguette for their individual approach to food. I hope that more and more such small places will open in the city.
Dish from Krakow: home cooking and product
I am not sure if, aside from obwarzanki (bagels), there is a dish that is a purely Krakow dish. The culture and cuisine of this place is a mix of influences of several nationalities, so when I think about Krakow, I think of home-made, burgher cuisine and excellent products - for example, Prądnicki bread sourdough soup with pickled red pine mushrooms. There are many, many more examples of such dishes - dried and smoked plums, Ojców trout, black or white poppy seeds. And caraway, which is now used less often, but once it was always added to bread and maczanka (sippet) sauce.
The chef that inspires: Norbert Niederkofler and Simon Taxacher
They both work in the logistically challenging regions (the Alps), but with superb results, and they cope well with all kinds of difficulties - from the lack of permanent staff to the non-availability of local vegetables for most of the year. They focus on local produce and work it in a modern way.
Marcin Filipkiewicz - since 2002, chef at the Copernicus hotel. In 2017 he was awarded the title of Prix au Chef de L'Avenir. In 2015 he was nominated to the Gault&Millau Poland Chef of the Year award and won the title of Gault&Millau Chef of the Year of South Poland.