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Where I eat in Krakow: Maja Dutkiewicz

Good bread, meat sandwiches and sweet treats - Maja Dutkiewicz - news and food journalist from Radio Krakow recommends her favourite Krakow hangouts.

For breakfast: Zaczyn

Everything starts with zaczyn (Polish for sourdough starter). A simple, extremely aromatic breakfast in this small but already legendary artisan bakery. Hand-made and oh-so-tasty. Minimalist yet cosy interior and delectable smell. Breads that disappear faster than you can say the word - brioches with apple, caramel and crumble topping, chocolate krantz cakes, toast with almond butter, nut spreads, roast vegetables and great coffee from Karma Coffee Roastery. Always something to surprise you with. Just remember - it is a good idea to come early.

For coffee: Cafe Lisboa

It is an obvious fact: no meet-up with friends would be the same without good coffee. I choose places that have well roasted coffee and an informal atmosphere. Cafe Lisboa at Dolnych Młynów 3/4 is a little bit of Portugal in Krakow: a pleasant atmosphere, wonderful coffee and delicious Portugese custard tarts. And Coffeece at Przemysłowa Street has excellent pour over coffee and “offers” endless chats about how many flavours you can fit in a single cup.

For Sunday lunch: Filipa 18

An excellent take on traditional Polish cuisine with a modern twist. The menu is inspired by field and forest, and is abundant in game, fish, mushrooms, vegetables and cereal grains. If you want to try the finest incarnations of the best Polish dishes prepared with produce directly from the nearby Kleparz market, the most renowned municipal market in Poland, you simply cannot miss this place. And all of this in the true and unmistakable spirit of slow food.  

For a quick snack: Meat&Go

Gourmet sandwiches. A carnivore's paradise. Slow roast and smoked meats accompanied by Hungarian pickles. Beef cheeks, tongues, ribs, pork, melt in your mouth goose. You will have a terrible dilemma on your hands. As if it wasn’t enough, there is a great selection of superb craft beers from Polish breweries just next door - in Weźże Krafta.

For an evening get-together with friends: wine

An evening out means wine, and wine means small wineries. It is worth to travel a little beyond the city centre.

For instance, to Zabłocie and precisely to Lipowa 6F. A lovely spot to sit back and have a chat. Their spacious, light, two-storey interior matches the unpretentious, laid-back, intimate atmosphere. Spontaneous evening parties is the motto of this place. The owner of Krako Slow Wines stocks primarily Georgian wines, but the selection also includes Polish, Romanian and Hungarian bottles. And beer too. The food is prepared in a foodtruck parked outside, often by well-known chefs. Lively and vibrant - Lipowa will draw you in like a moth to a flame!

Another option is on the Vistula River bank - austere interiors and an example of brutalist architecture - the former Hotel Forum. Culinary workshops, tastings with commentary and an extensive selection of wines. Sit back in Magazyn Wina (level -1 of Hotel Forum) and let the moment wash over you like the Vistula just a stone’s throw away.

For a date: Karakter

A quick date in Karakter always turns into a long and delightfully tasty evening. A modernist interior, informal atmosphere, chatty waiting staff, bold flavour fusions, and a one of a kind wine list of length with natural and surprising wine. It's also a good choice for those who like offal. 

For a good cake: Słodka Manufaktura and GTA

Two heavens of the confectionery world come to mind. First, Słodka Manufaktura (Czarnowiejska 73) - the land of sweet tenderness and childhood memories will tempt you with apple pie from Polish apples, grandma's meringue and classic cakes. Its family atmosphere and reminiscences on grandmas' cooking of old come as a bonus.

Galeria Tortów Artystycznych (Bożego Ciała 22) resembles the best European art galleries. Little masterpieces of confectionery come in a variety of shapes and forms but one thing remains constant - they are all to die for. There is always a dilemma: to eat or gawk?

A place in Krakow where I relax: Mehoffer's garden.

The gate at Krupnicza 26 which leads to Mehoffer's garden acts like a time machine. It brings you straight to paradise - a place of unspoilt peace. Tables are scattered around a mighty oak tree but you can enjoy your coffee also on one of the many benches. A perfect place to relax and a great spot for reading.

The dish that I strongly associate with Krakow: maczanka.

It is time to introduce Her Excellency - Hearty, Gravy-Soaked Exquisite Meat-full Maczanka Krakowska. To say it is older than coal may be a bit of an exaggeration, but 300 years of history is rather impressive. And not just in the realm of food. Maczanka krakowska is pork neck in gravy seasoned with caraway and served in water rolls (it is the light, fluffy variety that can soak up anything moist). A typical Krakow dish, in the 17th century it was popular mainly among carriage drivers and has now become the party-goers’ favourite. Andrus Foodtruck in Kazimierz has revived this tradition tremendously well.

Maja Dutkiewicz - news and food journalist of Radio Krakow, runs a Saturday radio show "Przystanek Kulinarny" and a series "Z Mają przy stole", both on cooking, culinary travels and food culture. Guests of her radio shows include top chefs, food critics, journalists, local producers and promoters of good food and wine.

 

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News author: Magdalena Wójcik
News Publisher: Culinary Krakow
Published: 2018-11-08
Last update: 2018-11-08
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