Handelki: breakfasts until midnight and
Since the 1890s Krakow delicatessen had adjacent "breakfast rooms" also called "breakfast establishments" or separate "breakfast handelki", open from 8am until midnight.
Some of the most famous handelki included a special room at Antoni Hawełka's, Wentzl's and Kuczmierczyk's establishments where at Anna Street "bohemians sipped on beverages". The latter was more of a sit-down place visited mainly for its kidneys, loins and maczanka (pulled pork sandwiches) "with excellent gravy that dripped all over one's fingers all the way down to the elbows or even shoulders. Occasional performances took place atop barrels which added to the charm" - recalls Antoni Wasilewski.
Janiga, Suski, Kosz, Del Ponti (at the corner of Karmelicka and Garbarska), Mackiewicza (at the corner of Długa and Słowiański Square), Norek (corner of Sławkowskia and Pijarska), called Knorek, ever since the dot after the first letter of the forename on the signboard wore off. Guests were served by "piccolos" - 10-14 year old boys. They took all sorts of orders: a glass of pilzner, "a light one in a high glass", "a pint with a head in a thick glass" and "a large one, with a collar in a tulip".
Hawełka was famous for its "pyramid" multi-tier sandwiches "covered with bryndza cheese with pepper, salmon, caviar and Swiss cheese and in the original spot in the Krzysztofory Palace he could hardly serve all the crowds of guests (…) Tables were covered with sheets of brown paper and the service were as busy as bees. Every once in a while somebody shouted: another one! and a huge overflowing glass) of beer from Krakow’s John bar, Okocim or Pilsen, would land on the table. Both locals and Austrian oficers cramped together in the room had a penchant for beer rather than vodka" - described Mieczysław Smolarski.
The handelki tradition finished in 1939. Rumour has it that after the war a husband of a shopkeeper from Długa Street wanted to open one. He specialised in smoked liverwurst served warm straight from the smokery. The name inspired the owners of "Handelek" eatery that opened at św. Filipa Street in Krakow.
